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Replicating the worldview of the 1920’s in Japan, this bar proudly presents its lineup of not only its drinks, but also its meals.

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By Aya Ota

In a street corner of the West Village where old buildings provide a classy ambience, you will find a richly thick wooden door. Once you step in, there is a space which gives you both nostalgic and new feelings at the same time. You feel as if you have gone back to a different era. This is “Bar Moga”, a cocktail bar which has replicated the images of 1920’s Japan.

“Moga” is short for modern girls. In the 1920’s in Japan (from the Taisho era to the early Showa era), brand-new cultures and fashions were being born one after another under the influences of the Western cultures. Young women at that time, who were leading the world of fashion, were called “Moga”. This bar which has replicated a unique and classic, yet also modern worldview of that time has been well received by New Yorkers, and is being visited by a lot of customers every day. The word, “Moga”, also symbolizes a better status for women in society, so many women, and women groups like to visit this bar.

The most popular items in this bar are its original cocktails. Those unique, and full-of-character cocktails contain Japan-made whiskey and shochu brands, and are accentuated by Japanese ingredients such as yuzu, shiso, shichimi, and yuzu-kosho. Those cocktails also have names such as “Naomi”, “Princess Mononoke”, “Kunoichi”, etc., to give Japan-like impacts. Many customers order Japanese whisky and sake brands. As for sake, “Iki na Onna (Tedorigawa Daiginjo)” brand is especially popular. They provide short and effective translations to Japanese sake brands that they carry, and the translation, “Lady Luck”, is extremely well-received.

This place is unique because, although being a drink bar, it also offers a very comprehensive food menu. Its concept is “Yoshoku comfort food”. For Japanese people, the place gives a nostalgic feel, which makes you reminisce of your childhood, and for Americans, it offers a new unknown genre. Takanori Akiyama, Executive Chef of “All Blue” Group which runs the restaurant, and Shintaro Eleazar Okuda, Chef de Cuisine, created many authentic Yoshoku menu items after multiple trials and errors.

The “Omu Rice ($18), their signature dish, is superb. When you slice into its top, soft-cooked egg omelet slowly runs out, and coats the chicken rice underneath. The house-made Demi-glace sauce has been created to offer the same quality and taste of Japan’s long-lasting Yoshoku restaurants. The chicken rice is flavored with the house Demi-Glace sauce with a touch of house ketchup, and the taste is loved by people of all ages. “Moga Mini Rice Burgers ($14)” is so surprisingly authentically made. Cooked rice mixed with potato starch is formed into the shape of buns, and Kobe beef, flavored with sweet and spicy teriyaki sauce is sandwiched between the buns. Shiso accentuates the burger, and gives it a refreshing taste. Sakura-buta pork is used for the katsu on the“Katsu Sando ($16)”, and they are the only restaurant in the East Coast that uses it. The thickly-sliced pork coated with raw panko, and fried slowly, is very tender, and the juice from the meat flows out and fills your mouth when you bite into it. The house miso katsu sauce that is a mixture of 5 different misos including Nagoya Haccho miso, has been cooked for 4 hours, and coats the fried pork katsu which is sandwiched between Japanese sandwich bread slices.

Every food menu item is addictingly delicious, and makes you want to order the same thing over and over again, but also want to try a different dish at the same time, making you suffer from the dilemma.

Some American customers ask whether they serve sushi, but they end up being satisfied once their concept is explained, and taste the food. They originally planned to serve a 70/30 drink/food percentage ratio, but the food menu is so popular, and now accounts for almost 40%.  

They pursue the Japan-like service as well. They want every customer to be sitting down, so sometimes, you have to wait outside. It is also nice that the jazz music they play in the restaurant is not loud, so you can talk comfortably.
I bet everybody mysteriously feels nostalgic, and comfortable in this stylish bar. I strongly suggest that you visit this place, and enjoy the non-routine and out-of-ordinary time.


日本の1920年代の世界観を再現…ドリンクだけでなく食事も自慢のバー
『Bar Moga』


古い建物が並び趣あるウェストヴィレッジの街の一角、重厚感ある木の扉を押して足を踏み入れると、懐かしさと新しさを同時に感じるような空間が広がる。まるで違う時代にタイムスリップしたかのようだ。ここは、日本の1920年代をイメージしたカクテルバー『Bar Moga』だ。

“Moga“とはモダンガールの略。日本では、1920年代(大正から昭和時代初期)に西洋文化の影響を受け、新しい文化やファッションが次々に生まれた。当時、その流行の最先端をいく若い女性たちのことを“Moga”と呼んだ。クラシックでもありモダンでもあるこの独特な世界観を再現したバーは、ニューヨーカーたちにも受け入れられ、連日多くの客で賑わっている。“Moga”は、女性の社会進出を象徴する言葉でもあることから、女性客や女性団体の利用も多いという。

 同店の一番人気はオリジナル・カクテルだ。日本産ウィスキーや焼酎を取り入れ、柚や紫蘇、七味や柚胡椒など和食材でアクセントを付けた個性あふれる内容だ。ネーミングも『Naomi』『Princess Mononoke』『Kunoichi』など日本らしさを印象づけている。日本産ウィスキーや日本酒を飲む客も多く、特に日本酒は『いきな女(手取川大吟醸)』が好まれる。同店では日本酒銘柄に気の利いた短い英訳を付けているが、「Lady Luck」という英語名が好評なようだ。

 同店はバーでありながら、食事メニューが充実しているのが特徴的だ。コンセプトは「日本の洋食」。日本人にとっては子供時代を思い出す懐かしさがあり、米国人客にとっては未知のジャンルだ。同店を運営するレストラングループ『All Blue』で総料理長を務める秋山剛徳氏と、同店の料理長を務める奥田慎太郎エレアザル氏が試行錯誤を重ね、一見カジュアルに見えるが、本格的な洋食メニューの数々を考案した。

シグニチャーの「オムライス」(18ドル)は絶品だ。ナイフを入れると半熟卵がとろりと流れ出し、チキンライスを包み込む。自家製のデミグラスソースは、日本の老舗洋食屋で提供されているような風味を追求した。チキンライスは、自家製デミグラスソースに、さらに自家製ケチャップを加え味付けしてあり、子供から大人まで愛される味だ。「ライスバーガー」(14ドル)はその本格ぶりに驚かされる。炊いたコメに片栗粉を混ぜてバンズ状に成形し、甘辛いテリヤキ風ソースで味付けした神戸牛を挟んでいる。紫蘇がアクセントになり、さっぱりと食べられる。「カツサンド」(16ドル)は、東海岸では唯一同店でしか使っていないというサクラブタを使用。生パン粉をつけてじっくりあげた豚肉は分厚いけれど柔らかく、一口頬張ると肉汁があふれ出る。名古屋の八丁味噌をはじめとする5種類の味噌を合わせて4時間かけて作る自家製の味噌カツソースに絡めて、日本の食パンで挟む。どれも、やみつきになる美味しさで、何度も同じメニューを食べたくなるし、他のメニューも頼んでみたいという葛藤に悩まされる。

 米国人客の中には「寿司はないか」と聞く客もいるというが、コンセプトを説明して食べてもらうと、誰もが満足するという。同店は、当初からドリンク70%、フード30%という割合で計画していたが、フードの人気が高く、今では、フードの割合が40%近くなっているということにも納得できる。
 
サービス面でも日本らしさを追求しており、客には必ず着席してもらうため、時には店の外に客が待つこともある。ジャズの音量も控えめで静かに話すことができるのもうれしい。

 不思議に誰もが懐かしさと居心地の良さを感じる、でもお洒落なバー。ぜひ足を運び非日常を味わってはいかがだろうか。



Bar Moga
128 W Houston Street
New York, NY 10012
Tel: 929-399-5853
www.barmoga.com
Sun-Thursday: 5PM-12AM
Fri-Sat: 5PM-2AM
#NY #alljapannews #bar #katsu #moga #sake #shochu #オムライス

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