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Sake shops in the center of Kyoto and surrounding areas

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Sake breweries were established by the Taira no Kiyomori era at the end of the 12th century. However, sake breweries started to operate nationwide around the 13th century.
The Kamakura Shogunate (Tokiyori HOJO) destroyed approximately 37,200 sake barrels in Kamakura city in 1252, and promulgated the “Alcohol sales prohibition injunction” to local districts. Afterwards, sake breweries grew in numbers and became prosperous.
Sake breweries in Kyoto began to gain attention nationwide around 1378, when the Muromachi shogunate 3rd shogun (commander) Yoshimitsu Ashikaga completed construction of the Ashikaga family’s resident palace, “Flower Palace.”
The 2nd shogun Yoshiakira Ashikaga purchased the “Flower Palace” from a court noble, which he used as a detached residence before he presented it to Emperor Sukou, who used the villa as his residence, thus referred to as the “Flower Palace.” This was the time when the shogunate decided to collect taxes from sake breweries.
In the “Sake Breweries registered in Kyoto” from 1425, 342 sake breweries were registered, of which two breweries were famous – “Yagani Sakaya” of Gojoboumon Nishi no Toin and “Ume Sakaya” of Gojo Karasuma.
In this way, sake breweries grew in Kyoto because rice from nationwide were gathered at the rice exchange since the shogunate regarded taxes from sake breweries as an important source of revenue, which helped sake breweries develop.


洛中洛外(らくちゅうらくがい)の酒屋

酒屋の成立は、12世紀末(平安末期)の平清盛の時代にすでに見られるが、全国的に展開し始めるのは13世紀から。
鎌倉幕府(北条頼時(よりとき)) は、建長4年(1252)に鎌倉の酒壷3万7千2百余りを破棄して、「酒販売禁制令」を諸国へ公布したが、それ以後も造り酒屋はますます繁栄して行った。
京都の酒屋が全国的に脚光を浴びたのは、室町幕府3代将軍足利義満が造営した足利家の邸宅の通称の「花の御所」が成った永和4年(1378) 頃である。「花の御所」とは、2代将軍足利義詮が公家から買上げて別邸とした後に崇光上皇に献上し、崇光上皇の御所となったことで「花の御所」と呼ばれるようになった。この時期に幕府は酒屋を税の対象とし始めた。
応永32年(1425)の「洛中洛外酒屋名簿」には342軒の酒屋(土倉)が記録されており、なかでも有名だったのは、五条坊門西洞院の「柳酒屋」と五条烏丸の「梅酒屋」の2軒である。
このように京都で酒屋が発展したのは、諸国の年貢米が三条室町の米の取引所に集まったことと、幕府が酒屋からの税を重要な財源と考え、酒屋の発展を助成したからだった。 

#japanesefood #kamakura #kyoto #sake

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