Japanese Sake : All Japan News,Inc

By Ryuji Takahashi

 

National Sake Day is October 1. Since the brewing year used to start in October, the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association designated October 1 as the National Sake Day in 1978. Events are held nationwide with participants toasting with sake to celebrate this day. The weekday of this event was Tuesday this year, thus the toasting event was held on a weekend in many cases. I attended the event held at the izakaya restaurant “Daidokoro Soma” in the Yoyogi area of Tokyo. 

 

Izakaya restaurant “Daidokoro Soma” (“Soma’s Kitchen”) is in the Yoyogi area of Tokyo, a restaurant district where many new restaurants opened in the last few years due to redevelopment. Many young customers frequent the area. The izakaya restaurant consists of eight counter seats, where older customers can sit comfortably and enjoy a drink, and a table that seats four guests. The event started on a Sunday at noon. The restaurant was filled by a wide range of solo guests between the ages of 20 to 60. 

 

The six seasonal fall sake selections served are “Akagisan Hiyaoroshi Honjozo” by Kondo Shuzo Co., Ltd., “Iwamiginzan Tokubetsu Junmai” by Ichinomiya Sake Brewing, “Nagatorogura Junmai Ginjo” by Fujisaki Sobei Shoten, “Takizawa Junmai Ginjo” by Shinsyu-Meijyo Co., Ltd, “Sanzui Junmai Ginjo” by Hakuro Shuzo, and “Honshu-ichi Junmai” by Umeda Shuzojo. 

 

The difference between each sake specification and the brewery that produced the sake can be savored with each sake that exuded a mellow fall flavor. The meal consisted of twelve courses, each devised by the restaurant owner Soma-san specifically for this event. Several appetizers prepared from vegetables kicked off the meal, followed by the chef’s original Char-siu (Chinese BBQ Pork), smoked duck, sausages, grilled shrimp, etc. Both young and elderly guests expressed satisfaction with the menu selections served. 

 

The bottles of sake prepared for the event gradually disappeared. The restaurant consisted of counter seats, where I watched the guests pour sake from each of the six bottles of seasonal fall sake for each other as they enjoyed the delicious food and lively conversations, exchanged contact information, and promised to meet up at “Daidokoro Soma” (“Soma’s Kitchen”) to drink together. I was reassured in my belief that sake is a communication tool. 

 

Three hours quickly passed as the guests enjoyed lively conversations, and the drinking event where adults toasted with sake ended. Every guest seemed full, slightly tipsy, and quite satisfied. I have no doubt that some guests who had not consumed enough sake went on to another restaurant afterwards. I often hear that guests who don’t usually drink sake are invited to drink sake on National Sake Day. I invite consumers who regularly enjoy sake to toast with sake not only on National Sake Day, but in everyday life with delicious food and great company.

 

 

 

東京地酒散歩（日本酒の日） 
 
　１０月１日は日本酒の日である。以前は酒造年度が１０月から始まっていた為、１９７８年に日本酒造組合中央会が日本酒の日と定めた。近年、全国各地で日本酒で乾杯するというイベントが行われている。今年は曜日が火曜日だったこともあり、乾杯イベントを週末に行う場合も多く、その中で、東京代々木の居酒屋「台所そうま」で行われたイベントに行ってきた。台所そうまは、この数年、再開発などで新しい飲食店街が出来、若者が多く飲み歩くようになった代々木の中で、年齢が少し高めの層の人々にもゆっくり酒を飲んでもらえるカウンター８席、４人テーブル１卓の落ち着いた店である。日曜日の昼１２時からスタートした会は満席で一人での来店が多く、２０代から６０代までと幅広い年齢層の人が集まっていた。並んだ日本酒は全て秋の季節酒で、群馬県近藤酒造の赤城山本醸造ひやおろし、島根県一宮酒造の石見銀山特別純米ひやおろし、埼玉県藤崎惣兵衛商店の長瀞蔵純米吟醸瓶火入れ、長野県信州銘醸の瀧澤純米吟醸ひやおろし、新潟県柏露酒造のさんずい純米大吟醸生詰め、広島県梅田酒造場の本洲一純米秋あがりの６種類。それぞれ、スペックと蔵の違いを楽しめ、まろやかで秋を感じることが出来る酒だった。料理は全１２品と盛りだくさんで、店主の相馬さんがこの日の為に用意した日本酒に合う最高に気のきいた料理が出てきた。野菜が中心の前菜数種から始まり、自家製チャーシュー、鴨スモーク、ソーセージ、エビのグリルなど若者も年配者も満足出来るコースだった。当然、酒が進み用意されていた日本酒の減りも早い。カウンター中心の店なので、参加者同士6種類の酒を回し注ぎあいながら、秋の酒と美味い料理で話が盛り上がり、連絡先を交換し、普段も台所そうまで酒を飲む約束をしている姿を見て、やはり酒はコミュニケーションツールなのだなと再度実感した。盛り上がっているうちに、あっという間に予定の３時間が過ぎ、大人の日本酒乾杯イベントは終了した。皆、腹も膨れほろ酔い状態で大満足といった感じであった。その後、飲み足りないメンバーが次の店に消えたことは言うまでもない。普段は日本酒を飲まない人達も１０月１日は日本酒のイベントに誘われ参加して日本酒を飲むという話をよく聞くので、飲めるのであれば、日本酒の日だけではなく、普段から日本酒で乾杯し美味い肴と酒で交流を深め楽しい日本酒ライフを送ってほしいと思う。
 

Originally, Japanese sake varies greatly in regional characteristics, along with sake quality. Although Japan is a small island nation, the land stretches great distances towards the north and south, surrounded by the ocean and many mountains. Therefore, various climates and natural features make up cold to warm regions, generating significant differences in water quality and geological features by region, also reflected in the differences in sake rice. Also, the traditional art of sake production differs not only by climate and natural features and the brewery master’s brewing method, but also according to the region - influenced by regional history and culture, local produce, and dietary customs, etc. - which of course produces the differences in flavors.         

 

For example, sake from Nada city, where sake is produced using water with high degree of hardness since ancient times, is known as the pure and dry “Otoko-zake” (“Male Sake”). On the other hand, sake from Fushimi – a region with soft water – is soft and sweet to the palate, referred to as “Onna-zake” (“Female Sake”). 

 

Also, many of the sake brands produced in the Hiroshima region are sweet, while sake from Kochi and Niigata prefectures are known to be dry.         

 

In that case, does the difference in sake quality in these regions since ancient times still exist today? A sake quality survey of commercially sold sake brands conducted every other year by Japan’s National Tax Agency Liquor Administration revealed that the overall sake trend tends to be dry and clean, while the general sweet, dry, rich, and clean flavors for which each prefecture is known still remains consistent to this day. However, this finding is not consistent when reviewing individual sake producers, for current sake brewing technologies can mostly control the degree of sweet, dry, rich, and clean flavors freely.     

 

One factor for the reduced regional differences among Japanese sake brands is due to the recent popularity of Ginjo sake. Previously, it was said in the sake brewing industry to “Apply the formula YK-35 to produce your sake to garner a Gold Award at The Annual Japan Sake Awards.” Y-35 refers to combining Yamadanishiki rice (Y) from Hyogo prefecture with Kumamoto yeast (K) at a rice-polishing ratio of 35 percent. Following this formula will produce high-quality ginjo sake while diminishing regional characteristics.    

 

This trend is not limited to Ginjo sake. Rice, the main ingredient of Japanese sake, is easily shipped compared to the grapes used to produce wine, thus the demand for high-quality ingredients often results in the use of rice from renowned production regions. The choice of yeast that significantly impacts the sake aroma is mostly the “association yeast” with the same property. Other important factors are the high degree of milling, processed water quality, frequently activated carbon filtration, distilled alcohol added, etc., that further diminish the individual sake flavor. 

 

However, new yeast is being developed recently by prefecture, with many breweries using local rice brands to produce their regional sake, thus increasing the likelihood of new regional flavors emerging.      

 

 

By Ryuji Takahashi
 
Buckwheat Noodle Restaurant “Hegisoba Katsura” is located near the Shin-Nakano subway station on the Marunouchi Line along the Oume Kaidou Highway, running east and west of Tokyo. “Hegisoba” is a buckwheat noodle (soba) dish, a local favorite in Niigata prefecture and a specialty of the Echigo region, characteristic for using Funori seaweed instead of flour. The chewy soba noodles are renowned for their flavor and go down smoothly. “Hegisoba Katsura” serves this traditional specialty dish of the Echigo region in Tokyo. Owner Michio Katsura trained to prepare Hegisoba in a renowned restaurant in Niigata prefecture before opening his community-based restaurant Katsuraya in 2019. 
 
Menu selections besides soba noodles include other specialties of Niigata prefecture, such as “Fried Tofu from Tochio” and “Nuka Iwashi” (Sardines Marinated in Rice Bran with Plenty of Salt). Despite its location in Tokyo, Hegisoba Katsura serves only Niigata sake selections. Tempura is delicious as expected of a soba noodle restaurant, in addition to fresh and delicious fish selections such as sashimi, rarely served in a soba noodle restaurant in the city. Business hours are from 11:00 to 22:30, open between lunch and dinner without closing in between, also rare but welcome news to sake fans.    
 
My impression is that workers employed near the restaurant come in during peak lunch hours, followed by mothers in the neighborhood, retirees who enjoy a drink in the afternoon, then businessmen who stop in after work. Owner Michio Katsura’s experience managing various restaurants is instrumental in creating this wonderful restaurant, popular among soba noodle fans and sake fans alike. 
 
The restaurant’s monthly event – Full course with monthly sake selections from different sake breweries - is popular among regulars, Hegisoba fans, and sake fans alike. The sake brewery of the day introduces their sake and converse with guests enjoying a full course meal of soba noodles as the main dish with sake. The menu selections served at Katsuraya complement sake, with most guests getting tipsy on a full stomach. The 2-hour event stretches into 3 hours each time. 
 
Sake brewery staff and guests who long enjoyed Hegisoba are not always familiar with how soba noodles are prepared. Many guests marveled that they never enjoyed such delicious Hegisoba, even in Niigata prefecture. The gourmet website “Hitosara” also ranked Hegisoba Katsura as the Number 1 soba noodle restaurant in Tokyo in 2023. With such delicious Hegisoba readily available in Tokyo, Hegisoba might be a welcome choice of toshikoshi soba (soba noodle dish traditionally enjoyed on New Year’s Eve) to ring in the new year?
 
 

 

 

東京地酒散歩（東京でへぎそば） 

 

　東京を東西に走る青梅街道沿い丸の内線の新中野駅傍に「越後へぎそば桂屋」がある。新潟では一般的に親しまれているこの「へぎそば」だが、正式には越後地方の名産で、小麦粉を使用せず布海苔（ふのり）と呼ばれる海藻をつなぎに使用するのが特徴である。喉越しが良くコシが有り、風味の良さが売りの蕎麦である。そんな越後地方伝統のへぎそばを東京で食べられるのが「越後へぎそば桂屋」である。店主の桂 三智夫氏は新潟の有名店でへぎそばを修行し東京に２０１９年、地元密着型の桂屋をオープンさせた。「栃尾の油揚げ」や「ぬかいわし」など蕎麦以外の料理も新潟にこだわり、日本酒ラインナップも新潟の酒だけと東京にいながら新潟を堪能出来る店だ。もちろん蕎麦屋なので天麩羅も美味いし、街の蕎麦やとしては珍しいが鮮魚の刺身も美味い。営業時間も酒呑みとしては嬉しいアイドルタイム休憩が無く、午前11時に開店してから午後10時30分まで、これまた町の蕎麦屋としては珍しい通し営業なのである。私の感覚では昼のピークタイムはお店の近くで働いている方々が来店し、それが落ち着くと近所のママさん達が集まり、夕方からは近くのご隠居さんが呑み始め、次第に仕事終わりのサラリーマンが呑みに来るといった感じである。店主の桂 三智夫氏は多数の飲食店の立ち上げや統括を経験していることから、この素晴らしい蕎麦好きにも酒好きにも愛される店を作れたのだろうと思う。そして、常連様やへぎそば愛好家や日本酒愛好家を喜ばせているイベントが、月に一回行われるお店のフルコースと月替わりの酒蔵の日本酒が飲み放題の酒蔵イベントである。その日は酒蔵の蔵元が酒の説明をしながら、参加者皆で語らいながら酒と蕎麦をメインとしたフルコースを楽しむことが出来る。桂屋の料理で酒が進まない訳がないので、皆酔っ払い、腹いっぱいになって、本来２時間くらいを予定しているイベントが３時間になるのは毎回のことである。参加者だけでなく、新潟の蔵元達もへぎそばを昔から食べているが、どのように蕎麦が打たれているかなどは知らなかったし、新潟でもここまで美味いへぎそばは食べたことがないと皆口を揃えて言うのである。グルメサイトの「ヒトサラ」でも２０２３年の東京の蕎麦屋で１位になった名店である。それほど美味いへぎそばが東京にあるのだから、いつもと違い、年越しそばはへぎそばという選択肢も今年は有りではないだろうか。

 

 

By Kosuke Kuji
 
Companies usually grow grapes fermented to produce wine. While this may seem normal in the world, farmers in Japan have long cultivated sake rice used by sake breweries to brew sake. 
 
Japanese laws in the past posed challenges for sake breweries to own rice paddies to cultivate sake rice. However, the laws recently relaxed to allow sake breweries passionately involved in cultivating sake rice to increase their own company-owned rice fields. 
 
Twenty-two sake breweries enthusiastically cultivating their own sake rice gathered and founded “Farming & Brewing,” an association that cultivates sake rice and brews sake to introduce original sake products to consumers, in 2023. 
 
The association introduces original farm-to-table sake products to consumers through various activities, such as sampling events held at the Aoyama Farmers Market in Tokyo. 
 
Farming & Brewing is garnering attention in Japan as a Japanese sake association that also sells original sake products and merchandise on ELEMINIST, a digital platform that sells sustainable products. 
 
I feel more sake breweries will start growing their own rice to produce sake products in the future, as sustainable sake production will soon become the norm worldwide, with more sake breweries expected to join as members. Please continue to support the activities of this association.

 

 

 

酒豪大陸「農業を本気でやる蔵元の会」 

 

ワインではブドウ栽培とワイン醸造が同じ人、会社がやる事が多く、世界では当たり前の感覚ですが、日本では長らく米は農家がつくり、その米で日本酒の蔵元が酒を造る、という流れになっています。

 

なかなか今までの日本の法律では蔵元自らが田んぼを持つことが難しく、近年緩和され、今までも熱心に農業に関わっていた蔵元達が自社の田んぼを増やしていく傾向になっていました。

 

そんな農業に強い想いを持つ蔵元が集まり、原料の米作りから酒造りまでを一貫して手掛け、農業と醸造、そして消費者を繋げることを目的に22の酒蔵で構成された「農！と言える酒蔵の会」が2023年に設立されました。

 

この会では、農業と酒蔵の連携について、広く一般のお客さんに伝えていき、東京・青山ファーマーズマーケットでの試飲販売会などを通して活動を伝え続けています。

 

また、ELEMINIST のオンラインショップでオリジナル商品等の販売なども行っており、今日本で最も注目されている日本酒の団体となっています。

 

これからの長い歴史の中で、蔵元が自ら米を栽培して酒にしていく、という当たり前の流れは強まっていくと感じています。また、そういったサスティナブルな酒造りが世界で評価される時代もこれから来ると感じています。加盟蔵はこれからどんどん増えていくと思いますので、この会の活動には注目をしてください。

 

 

By Ryuji Takahashi 
 
The largest sake event in Japan is the “Niigata Sake Festival,” held annually in Niigata prefecture over two days. True to its name, sake breweries from throughout Niigata prefecture gather in one place to attend this event. The concept of this event is to welcome guests from Tokyo to enjoy the atmosphere of this event. Therefore, the event “Niigata Sake Baru in Meguro” was organized at restaurant “Niigata Sake Baru Fukidamari” in Meguro ward, Tokyo. 
 
The two-day event held over a weekend was attended by 7 sake breweries - “AOKISHUZO The Sake Brewery Co., LTD.,” “OFUKU SHUZOU Co., Ltd.,” “Kiminoi Shuzou Co., Ltd.,” “Sasaiwai Sake Brewery,” “Taiyo Sake Brewery Co., Ltd.,” “Tamagawa Sake Brewery Co., Ltd.,” and “Minenohakubai Shuzo” - as exhibitors, along with a joint booth between 3 breweries from the sake shop - “Kanemasu Sake Co., Ltd.,” “Hakuro Sake Brewery Co., Ltd.,” and “Shiokawa Sake Brewery Co., Ltd.” – totaling 10 breweries with over 30 different sake selections from Niigata prefecture. Echigo Beer Co., Ltd. and Iwanohara Vineyard Co., Ltd. also exhibited booths on this balmy day to serve chilled beer and white wine.      
 
Rice from Niigata prefecture and pickled vegetables were served at a booth, while pizza and yakisoba were served out of a food truck at the Niigata Sake Festival site. The event venue was studio EASE along the Japan Railways (JR) railroad tracks between Meguro ward and Gotanda district, a chic outdoor space reminiscent of a European cityscape usually used to take photographs. Admission was free, and a space was available where children played freely with many families that attended. Sake was enjoyed by purchasing several tickets for 500 JPY each. Tickets were submitted at each booth according to the sake classification - ordinary sake required one ticket, while Ginjo required two tickets. 
 
Guests with reservations arrived at the “Niigata Sake Baru Fukidamari” beforehand with all-you-can-drink tickets already purchased for 3,500 JPY each, an economical option that offered all-you-can-drink sake, regardless of the sake classification. Light showers never required an umbrella both days. The evening lights illuminated the venue with metropolitan apartments visible behind the European-style cityscape in an enchantingly beautiful sight that was indescribable. 
 
Since tickets were accepted instead of cash, customers casually enjoyed sake and food while other participants traded food and beverages with each other in a very friendly atmosphere staffed with volunteers. The venue was filled with a comfortable, wonderful sense of unity. Although various sampling events and sales events are also organized in Tokyo for sake brewed in Niigata prefecture, few opportunities exist to sample and compare various sake brands. Therefore, this is an event that I would love to see continue in the future. 

 

 

東京地酒散歩（新潟酒バルの陣）

 

　新潟で１年に一回２日間にわたって開催される「新潟酒の陣」という国内最大級の日本酒イベントがある。名前通り新潟の酒蔵が一堂に集結して行われるイベントである。東京の人にも、このイベントの雰囲気を少しでも味わってほしいというコンセプトで、「新潟酒バル吹溜」という東京目黒の飲食店が「新潟酒バルの陣ｉｎ目黒」というイベントを開催した。土日の二日間で行われたこのイベントは日本酒蔵ブースが７蔵、「青木酒造」「お福正宗酒造」「君の井酒造」「笹祝酒造」「大洋酒造」「玉川酒造」「峰乃白梅酒造」酒販店の酒蔵3蔵合同ブース「金升酒造」「柏露酒造」「塩川酒造」を合わせ１０蔵、３０種類以上の酒蔵の新潟酒が楽しめ、他にも越後ビールや岩の原ワインなどもブースを出しており、暑い日だったので冷えたビールや白ワインなどを楽しむことが出来た。食事は新潟のお米や漬物が味わえるブースやピザや焼きそばのキッチンカーが出ており、しっかり小さな新潟酒の陣の風景となった。開催場所はＪＲの線路沿いで目黒と五反田の間にある、スタジオＥＡＳＥという場所で、ヨーロッパの街並みを模したおしゃれな屋外スペースで普段は写真撮影などで使われる場所とのこと。会場には無料で入場出来て、子供たちがフリーに遊べるスペースもあり、家族連れも多い印象だった。まずは１枚５００円のチケットを数枚購入し、その後、酒のランクによって普通酒は１枚、吟醸酒は２枚の様に、各ブースにチケットを渡し、酒を飲むシステムである。事前に「新潟酒バル吹溜」に来店して予約済みの人達は飲み放題チケットを３５００円で購入しており、酒のランク関係なく好きなだけ飲み歩けるというお得なシステムだった。少しだけ雨を感じる時間もあったが２日間通し傘の出番は無く、夕暮れには会場にライトが灯り始め、ヨーロッパの街並みの後ろに、都会的なマンションなどが見える不思議な光景が、何とも言えない素敵な雰囲気だった。チケット制だからなのか、現金を出すよりも、軽い感覚でお酒や料理が頼めるので、参加者同士でご馳走しあったりしていて、非常に和やかで、スタッフ側も全員ボランティアで会場の一体感は心地良く素晴らしい状態だった。新潟の酒蔵に単体で出会える試飲会や販売会などは東京でも色々あるが、様々な新潟の酒蔵に１度に出会えて飲み比べ出来る機会は少ないので、今後も続けてほしいイベントである。

 

 

 

酒豪大陸「日本の若者と日本酒②」 

 

日本の若者と日本酒についての2回目のお話しです。

 

前回は浅草での会のお話しをしましたが、今回は渋谷です。

 

ご存じの通り、日本の若者＝渋谷、という図式が成り立つほど、渋谷は若者にとって若者を象徴する場所です。私も若いころは良く遊びに行きました。

 

その渋谷の新しくなったMIYASHITA PARKを会場に、「SAKE PARK」というイベントが開催されています。今年で3回目の開催で、年々たくさんの渋谷の若者が集います。

 

このイベントは全国から25の酒蔵と、5つのクラフトサケ（日本酒の製造免許は無いがどぶろくなどを製造する）の会社が集まります。

 

さらに、お酒だけではなく音楽アーティストも参加して、夕暮れからはDJライブなどが会場で開催され、渋谷らしい盛り上がりで日本酒を楽しむことが出来ます。

 

このような形での開催が出来るのは、まさに渋谷ならではで、ダンスのリズムを取りながら、手には日本酒という、すごい映像を見ることが出来ます。

 

ギャルもいるし、若いIT系の人や、もういつも見ているおじさんだけの試飲会とは全く違う方々が日本酒と音楽を楽しむ光景は、日本の日本酒の未来に希望を持てる瞬間だと思います。

 

日本酒だけを飲み屋で飲んで、といっても若い方々には伝わりにくく、行きにくいのも確かです。だからこそ渋谷という地で、音楽やDJライブと日本酒を掛け合わせる事で若者を取り込むことはとてもすごい試みだと思います。